Common Impatiens Diseases And Pest
The common impatiens problem is caused by a fungus called Pseudomonas aeruginosa (P.aeruginosa). This fungal infection causes the growth of white spots on the petals of your plants’ flowers. The disease usually affects young plants, but it can affect any plant that receives too much sunlight or water during its life cycle.
If left untreated, the disease can kill your plants.
White spot infections are not contagious and do not spread from one person to another. However, they may cause other problems such as stunted growth, yellowing leaves and stems, and even death if left untreated. You’ll need to treat your plants with fungicide before the white spots appear again.
How To Treat White Spots On Your Plants?
You can use two types of fungicides to control white spot infections: insecticidal soaps and organic chemicals. Insecticidal soap kills insects that feed on the fungus, while organic chemical products kill all stages of fungi including spores. Both kinds of products work well against white spot infections.
After two or three days, check your plants for new signs of white spots. If you don’t see any new growth, you can stop treatment after a week and resume regular watering and sunlight routines. If you notice more white spots after treating your plants, you may need to get a stronger concentration of fungicide.
You can use some organic home remedies to kill white spots on your plants. These products include:
Use a cotton ball to apply the oil directly to infected areas. You can also use a spray bottle and apply the oil directly to your plants. Make sure to cover all the areas that are affected by white spots using as little water as possible.
You can also use insecticidal soaps as an organic treatment. Use insecticidal soaps the same way you’d use home remedies for white spots. These organic chemicals will kill most fungal diseases that are on your plant leaves.
How To Revive A Dying Impatiens?
Some people find it difficult to revive dying impatiens plants due to their bad experiences with the plant. Whether you’ve had success or not, here are some tips for reviving a dying impatiens at home.
Step 1: Check For Common Impatiens Diseases
If you have recently purchased a new impatiens plant, it may be infected by plant diseases that are common in your area. Look for signs of:
Mold or fungus on the leaves or around the roots
Slow wilting or yellowing of the leaves
If you see any of these conditions, you will need to treat your plants for disease before they will recover.
Step 2: Transplant The Impatiens
If your plants are wilting due to a lack of water, you can revive them by transplanting them into a well-drained container filled with quality potting soil. Make sure the container has ample drainage holes to prevent overwatering.
Be sure to plant your impatiens in a sunny area. If it doesn’t get enough light, it won’t survive no matter how much you water or fertilize it. Consider adding a layer of gravel to the bottom of the pot so the roots can absorb moisture even after you water the soil.
Step 3: Fertilize Impatiens
Add a slow-release 20-20-20 fertilizer to the soil before you plant your impatiens. These plants thrive when given a balanced amount of nutrients. Too much or too little fertilizer can cause problems for your plants.
Don’t fertilize again until spring when you begin your regular outdoor gardening routine. Before you apply any fertilizer, test the soil to determine if it is lacking in any major nutrients. Impatiens are prone to over-fertilization, so be careful not to add too much.
Step 4: Watch For New Growth
Once you begin adding water and fertilizer to your impatiens, keep an eye on new growth. You will need to continue watering and fertilizing your plants until new growth begins. Typically, new leaves or flowers should appear within a month, but this can vary depending on the type of impatiens and growing conditions.
Step 5: Watch For New Growths
After new growth begins, stop watering and fertilizing your plants. Fertilizing after new growth begins can damage or kill the plant. Watering once growth has begun is less important, but can help keep your plant healthy if there is a drought.
Watch for new flowers as well as leaves after growth begins. You can also transfer the plant back outside during this period if you want it to flower. The more sun the plant gets, the more flowers it will produce.
Step 6: Repot Or Transplant
During the blooming period, impatiens will typically grow quite large. It’s best to either repot the plant or transplant it into a larger container before the blooming process begins. This will make it easier to enjoy the flowers without worrying that the plant is too big for its surroundings.
Impatiens have fleshy roots, which means they need a well-draining container filled with quality topsoil or potting soil. Make sure there are plenty of holes in the bottom of the container to allow water to drain out of the pot. Higher quality pots will also have a waterproof lining to prevent leaks.
Step 7: Enjoy Your Flowers
Once your plant blooms, you will enjoy a colorful show of petals for several weeks. These flowers are perfect for decorating outdoor gardens, flower beds and even large containers. They also make a colorful addition to mixed bouquets.
Once the flowers begin to die, cut them off near the base of the plant so that the plant knows it is time to reproduce. This will encourage the plant to keep growing so that it can produce more flowers for the next blooming period.
Tips & Warnings
Wait until nighttime to cut the flowers off of your impatiens because this is when the plants store the most sugar in their stems and petals.
Make sure to deadhead your flowers once they begin to die. This will prevent the plant from expending energy on producing fruit or seeds that won’t be able to ripen. It will also help encourage the plant to produce another batch of blooms.
Fertilize your impatiens lightly after they have been planted for several months. This will prevent plants that are prone to excessive leafy growth and weak stems. Most commercial fertilizers are too strong for impatiens, so seek out a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen and high in potash.
High quality pots and containers will have a waterproof lining to prevent leaks. If the container doesn’t have a lining, make sure to water your plant carefully to prevent root rot.
Make sure to plant your impatiens in a sunny area. They need at least five or six hours of direct sunlight each day. If they don’t get enough sun, they won’t bloom very much.
Make sure the soil you’re using drains well. Impatien’s have very shallow roots and don’t do well in wet soil because it can cause root rot. If you’re using low quality soil or a container with no holes, you should add some gravel to the bottom to improve the drainage.
If your plant is infected with spider mites or aphids, try ‘washing’ the pests off of the leaves in a shower or lightly misting them with water. This will remove most of the insects without harming the plant.
Impatiens grow best when they receive between 4 and 8 hours of sunlight each day. If your garden soil is heavy, full of clay or compacted, consider planting your impatiens in a raised bed filled with light colored soil, such as pine bark or forest wood.
If you’re growing your impatiens in a container or a raised bed, make sure to provide the plant with some bottom drainage holes to prevent water from collecting around the roots. These plants do not like wet feet!
If you live where it gets very cold in winter, mulch your container gardens with evergreen branches or pinebark. This will help to insulate the plant and prevent it from getting too cold. You can also move your container plants into a sunnier location that stays a little warmer like a south- or west-facing wall.
When you’re ready to plant your new impatiens in the ground, wait until spring and make sure the soil temperature is at least 40 degrees. This will prevent the new plants from wilting in the heat or freezing during a cold snap. Transplant them 30 inches apart and water them in well after planting.
To improve your soil, plant a border of quick-growing annuals around your garden. As the plants grow, their roots will help loosen the soil and make it easier for your perennials and annuals to get the nutrients they need.
When your plants are growing well and if you’re feeling ambitious, you can propagate them by taking 5 to 8 inch cuttings in early summer. Dip the cut end in a rooting hormone first and plant them in moist, sterile soil. Keep the cuttings misted with water and place them where they don’t get direct sunlight for about two weeks while the roots start to grow.
You can start fresh seeds for new plants any time of year, though you will have the best results if you start in spring or early summer. Fill a container with lightly moistened seed starting mix and plant one seed every two inches. Keep the containers at about 75 degrees Fahrenheit and lightly mist them 2 to 4 times a day. Your seeds should germinate within 10 to 15 days.
Be careful when transplanting seedlings from the garden to containers. They can be easily damaged if you accidentally rub or scrape them against the edges of metal, plastic or even wood (like in a pot with sharp corners). The easiest way to transplant small plants is to place your hands on either side of the plant’s rootball and gently lift it up and over, turning it and placing it down into the new container.
There are two ways to get rid of pests: you can use pesticides which are commercially available in a wide range of selection or you can create your own organic insecticides. There are as many organic insecticides as there are pest problems. Here are just a few of the most popular.
Baking Soda Fumes: Siphon up some of the baking soda from its container, place a piece of plastic wrap over the top of it and poke a few holes in it for fume release. Place it near the pest and step back! It is very effective on mealy bugs.
Aspirin Bug Bite Treatment: Crush up 4 aspirins and mix with 8oz of water. Apply to insect bites to reduce irritation and swelling. It also gets rid of itch for most people.
Chili Powder Fire Ant Killer: This is one of the best and organic ways to get rid of fire ants. Create a cleaning solution of 3 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid and 1 gallon of water. Stir in 1/4 cup of chili powder and bring to a boil on your stove. Use a paintbrush to apply it to ant mounds and other fire ant hot spots like under decks and under concrete slabs.
Garlic and Pepper Spray: Garlic and pepper both act as irritants to most insects. Mix them into a vegetable oil and shake well. Apply liberally to your plants, the garlic acts as an herbicide and the pepper is a repellent. The oil can also be used as a fire ant killer by the method described above for chili powder.
Note: Don’t get this on your skin!
These other common natural insect repellents can also be mixed into a vegetable oil base and applied to crops.
Onion or Garlic
Neem Oil: This is an excellent organic insecticide made from the seeds of the Neem tree. It is sold commercially under the names Azamax, Neemix and Neem-Guard among others.
Vinegar Concentrate Bug Killer: Mix one part white Vinegar with nine parts water in a spray bottle.
Sources & references used in this article:
Dispersal of Verticilium albo-atrum by the fungus gnat (Bradysia impatiens) by DW Kalb, RL Millar – Plant Disease, 1986 – apsnet.org
Transmission of Pythium aphanidermatum to greenhouse cucumber by the fungus gnat Bradysia impatiens (Diptera: Sciaridae) by WR Jarvis, JL Shipp, RB Gardiner – Annals of Applied Biology, 1993 – Wiley Online Library
Distinct efficiencies of Impatiens necrotic spot virus transmission by five thrips vector species (Thysanoptera: Thripidae) of tospoviruses in Japan by T Sakurai, T Inoue, S Tsuda – Applied Entomology and Zoology, 2004 – jstage.jst.go.jp
Effects of virus infection on growth of the invasive alien Impatiens glandulifera. by J Kollmann, MJ Bañuelos, SL Nielsen – Preslia, 2007 – cabdirect.org
Do local enemies attack alien and native Impatiens alike? by K Najberek, W Solarz, D Chmura – Acta Societatis Botanicorum Poloniae, 2017 – core.ac.uk
Photosynthetic daily light integral during the seedling stage influences subsequent growth and flowering of Celosia, Impatiens, Salvia, Tagetes, and Viola by LA Pramuk, ES Runkle – HortScience, 2005 – journals.ashs.org
Characterization and Epidemiology of Outbreaks of Impatiens necrotic spot virus on Lettuce in Coastal California by YW Kuo, RL Gilbertson, T Turini, EB Brennan… – … Disease, 2014 – Am Phytopath Society
First Report of Frankliniella fusca as a Vector of Impatiens necrotic spot tospovirus by RA Naidu, CM Deom, JL Sherwood – Plant Disease, 2001 – Am Phytopath Society