Purple Fountain Grass In Containers – Taking Care Of Fountain Grass Indoors Over Winter
When spring comes, it’s time to plant new flowers and put away old ones. If you have ever planted a garden or even just tended your own lawn, then you are probably familiar with the idea of “spring cleaning.” You clean out all the trash from your yard and start over again.
Spring cleaning is a great way to get rid of unwanted plants that may not be needed anymore. However, if you live in a colder climate where the days are getting shorter each year, it might be difficult to do so. Or maybe you want to grow something different than what is typically available at your local market. Whatever the reason, one thing that many people don’t consider is that they will need to take care of their garden during the winter months.
In fact, gardening in cold climates such as ours requires extra attention because there isn’t enough sunlight during those long dark winters. That’s why it’s good to prepare yourself before the cold weather sets in. One of the best ways to ensure that you’ll have everything ready for the coming winter season is by preparing your garden for winter by planting purple fountain grass seeds indoors.
What Are Purple Fountain Grass Seeds?
Purple fountain grass (Pseudotsuga menziesii) is a type of annual grass native to Europe and Asia. It is often grown as an ornamental plant because of its long, narrow leaves and glossy purple-tinged tips.
How To Take Care Of Purple Fountain Grass Over Winter
One of the most important factors when preparing your garden for winter is to make sure that you’ve spread enough compost or manure over your flower beds. This will ensure that your plants continue to get the nutrients that they need throughout the cold months. Along with that, this will also make it easier for you to turn over your soil when you’re ready to plant again in the spring.
When you’re spreading the manure or compost throughout your flower beds, be sure to take special care of the purple fountain grass that you’ve planted since it is likely to be subjected to less sunlight during the winter months. If you’ve chosen to grow purple fountain grass in your flower bed, you can dig small holes into the soil and place a few seeds into each hole. As the seeds begin to germinate, they will soon start growing and spreading out over the soil.
After a few weeks, your purple fountain grass should be ready to harvest before the cold weather arrives.
When the cold months finally do arrive, you’ll need to make sure that your plant has everything it needs in order to survive. Even if you’ve planted purple fountain grass inside a container, you will need to provide adequate lighting for the plant in order for it to continue growing. If you’re growing the flowers outside, you can simply put a spotlight over the plants so they get enough sunlight.
You can also use grow lights to provide the necessary light your purple fountain grass needs so it can continue producing flowers.
When you’re ready to plant your seeds again in spring, you’ll need to turn over your soil in order to remove all traces of the previous year’s growth. Then, you can replant your seeds and place them in a sunny location so they can continue growing.
Purple fountain grass is a beautiful ornamental plant that can be used to add a splash of colour to your flower beds. By planting purple fountain grass seeds indoors and taking good care of them throughout the year, you can ensure that your plants will continue growing and you’ll have plenty of flowers to brighten up your home for years to come.
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Grasses are certainly a lot less work than flowers but they can still add a nice touch of colour to your yard. If you don’t want to go through the hassle of taking care of plants indoors, consider planting some grass instead. It’s a less demanding plant that will still add a nice touch of colour to your yard.
Green Grass is a perfect grass seed because it grows quickly and can provide a nice green cover over any areas of bare soil that you may have. Not only does the grass grow extremely quickly but it can also survive most growing conditions so you won’t need to worry about watering or fertilizing it. This means that you can plant it over large areas and not worry about it dying like you would flowers.
By planting Green Grass, you can create the illusion that you have a perfectly manicured lawn. Whether you have an empty space that needs covering or your whole lawn just needs a pick-me-up, this grass seed will do the trick!
There are many different types of garden soil available. While each type has its own benefits, the most important thing to remember is that you need good drainage in your flower beds. If the soil holds water, you run the risk of killing your plants.
If you have heavy clay soil, you are going to have a hard time trying to turn it over for planting because it is very dense. This soil type is not easy to dig and has a tendency to form bricks when dry. While you can’t do much about the density of the soil, you can add plenty of organic matter to help with the drainage.
Often times, topsoil is classified as heavy clay, but if you happen to have the good fortune of having some topsoil that isn’t too dense, you are in luck because you won’t have to break your back turning your soil. The best type of soil to have for your flower garden is sandy loam. It isn’t too dense and isn’t too loose and it is easy to work with.
You can easily add additional organic matter to it for a better texture and drainage.
When you turn your soil, you are going to have several different layers. It is recommended that you break up the chunks of dirt and try to have a somewhat uniform texture throughout. You can do this by hand or you can rent a tiller to do the job for you.
If you choose to till it by machine, be careful not to overdo it because you don’t want to turn the soil to dust.
Once you have broken up the soil and had a chance for it to settle a bit, you are ready to start laying out your flower garden. Make sure that the area is big enough to accommodate all of the plants that you intend on planting. You don’t have to dig up the whole area to plant something in a particular spot.
You can till just the part where you want to plant and then put down your plants.
Once you have your flower garden laid out, you now have to prepare the ground for planting. Using a rake or hoe, make small holes where each plant is going to be placed so that you can easily place each plant into its hole without harming the roots.
Plant each plant separately and be careful not to trample the soil. If you compact the soil around the plants’ roots, they won’t be able to draw up water and nutrients properly and they will die. Once all of your plants are in the ground, spread mulch (pine needles, grass clippings or shredded bark) around each plant to help retain moisture and keep weeds from growing.
The best time of year to start seeds is early spring. Fill your seed starting pots with a good quality seed starting soil. You can find this at any garden center or even in the gardening section at your local department store.
Firmly press several seeds into each pot, then cover with about the same amount of soil. Once all of your pots have seeds in them, place them into a plastic zip bag and put them in a warm location until they start to sprout.
Once the seeds sprout, take the pots out of the bag and place them in a sunny window. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy wet. Your seedlings should quickly pop through the soil within a week or two.
Then you can transplant the seedlings into your permanent location.
If you start your seeds outdoors, it is best to plant them in early spring soon after all threat of frost has passed.
Plant the seeds about an inch or so deep and keep the soil moist, but not soggy wet. The best time of day to water is in the morning in most climates, but check the seed packet or your seedlings for specific watering instructions.
If you have planted seeds outdoors, you can use empty tin cans with both ends removed and a few small holes punched into them to help extend the soil and protect the seeds from birds.
You can also use toilet paper or paper-towel tubes with both ends removed and a few small holes punched into them to protect the seedlings as they sprout.
If you have cultivated your soil properly, you shouldn’t need to add fertilizer for the first year. Most annuals don’t need an ongoing source of nitrogen and will do fine with whatever is in the soil or potting soil.
Once your plants have been growing for a few months, you can start giving them a small dose of fertilizer every month or so. Not too much, just a light sprinkling around the base of each plant. Use a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20.
If your plants have a yellowish cast to the leaves, they need fertilizer. A plant that isn’t getting enough nutrients will have a Ml color to its leaves.
One common problem that can develop is a condition called “fungus”. This appears as a blackish or brownish splotch on one or more of the leaves. Avoid over-watering and keep your plants indoors in a well-ventilated area and you shouldn’t have too many problems.
If you do get fungus, however, there is a cure readily available at your friendly neighborhood drug store– Clorox. Just follow the instructions on the label.
Q: HOW DO I TAKE CARE OF MY ANNUALS?
A: Most annuals are very easy to take care of. The best way to give them the proper amount of light is to place them where they will receive at least eight hours of sunlight a day, either from natural or artificial light. If this isn’t possible, you can give them fluorescent light for fourteen to sixteen hours a day.
Annuals require very little fertilizer. A balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 is fine. Use a fertilizer that is soluble to make things easier for you.
Fertilize during the active growth period, which is usually spring and summer. Don’t fertilize in the fall or winter.
Annuals should be watered as needed to keep the soil moist, not wet. Water when the top inch of soil is dry.
Q: HOW DO I TAKE CARE OF MY PERENNIALS?
A: Perennials come in two forms, non- wood and wood. Both need a well- prepared soil with plenty of organic matter such as composted cow manure.
The soil should be prepared at least a year before you plan to plant. Dig the soil to at least a foot deep and mix in the organic matter. Keep it well watered.
The non-woody type, which include most perennials, are easiest to take care of. These are plants that don’t produce woody stems and don’t last for more than three years. They usually have very active root systems and need more water than the woody plants.
Perennials require a minimum of seven to eight hours of sunlight a day and should be watered as needed to keep the soil from drying out. Once the plants are established, they usually take care of themselves.
Water at the base of the plant rather than on the leaves to prevent fungal diseases. Fungal and other diseases are more of a problem with perennials than with other plants because their system is much more delicate.
The woody type, which includes things like azaleas, require a little more work to keep them healthy but are not difficult to grow.
Like the non-woody plants, they should be planted a year before you plan to put them in your bed so that the soil has time to prepare. After a year, the roots can be dug up and divided into smaller clumps to make more plants. This is done by carefully digging around the plant until all the little root clumps are visible.
Each of these clumps are then separated and replanted.
Sources & references used in this article:
Herbaceous ornamentals: annuals, perennials, and ornamental grasses by SL Love, K Noble, S Parkinson… – University of Idaho …, 2009 – extension.uidaho.edu
Midwest Gardener’s Handbook: Your Complete Guide: Select-Plan-Plant-Maintain-Problem-solve-Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Michigan, Minnesota … by M Myers – 2013 – books.google.com
Ornamental grasses by CR Wilson – Gardening series. Yard; no. 7.232, 1999 – mountainscholar.org
Ornamental grasses and grasslike plants by NJ Ondra – 2002 – Storey Publishing
… , propagation, building an aquatic house, wintering, correct designing and planting of banks and margins, together with cultural directions for all ornamental … by AJ Oakes – 2012 – books.google.com
Plantiful: Start Small, Grow Big with 150 Plants that Spread, Self-sow, and Overwinter by W Tricker – 1897 – books.google.com
Taylor’s Guide to Ornamental Grasses by K Green – 2014 – books.google.com