Deadheadedness: How To Deadhead Shasta Daisies?
The first thing to do when you want to start deadheading shasta daisies is to determine if it’s safe or not. If you’re going to attempt this task, then make sure you have all your tools ready before starting. You’ll need a knife with a sharp blade, some tweezers, and perhaps even a pair of scissors.
If you don’t have any of these things, then you might consider getting them from a hardware store. A good place to get them would be Wal-Mart.
They usually carry everything needed for this purpose. Another option would be to go online and order them yourself. There are many places where you can buy tools like tweezers and scissors, but they aren’t cheap either! I’ve seen some items for sale on Amazon for under $10!
When you arrive at the site of the deadwood, take note of its location. Some sites may have multiple locations, so keep track of which one you’re looking for.
For example, I found a couple sites near my house (I live in Sacramento). One was located in a wooded area behind my home; another was located on top of a hillside above my backyard. In both cases, I’d never been to either site before. It was an exciting find!
When you get to the site, start looking around for deadwood. Check the base of any trees that are within the area.
A shadetree might have fallen over and accumulated dead leaves around its base. Some other trees may have a lot of dead branches on them as well. Other than that, keep a look out for anything unusual on the ground.
When you find some deadwood, it’s time to cut it down to size. You don’t have to worry about damaging nearby plants or harming the environment, because this stuff is already dead!
Just make sure you aren’t cutting down a tree that is currently growing healthy leaves. The only thing you need is deadwood, so if you see a tree with only dead branches, then start cutting those off!
After you’ve gathered some deadwood, it’s time to start digging. The best place to start digging is where the deadwood was broken off of the parent plant.
If you see a wide gap between the deadwood and the parent plant, then that’s probably the spot. You want to dig down far enough until you can see where they were connected. You don’t have to dig too deep, maybe just a few inches will do.
Once you’ve gotten down to the point where you can see where the deadwood was once connected, then it’s time to graft. The process of grafting is very simple.
All you need to do is cut the deadwood at an angle. Try to cut it so that a “V” shape is left behind. For smaller plants, all you have to do is make a diagonal cut into the rootstock. You don’t have to do anything else.
If you’re grafting a very thick deadwood, then you’ll need to make an “X” incision. After you’ve made the incision, you’ll need to spread it open so that the living rootstock is exposed.
Try to keep as much of the living rootstock exposed as possible. The rootstock will begin to grow into the deadwood over time.
Now it’s time to plant the deadwood. If you were only grafting a thin piece, then all you have to do is place it against the rootstock.
Push it firmly into the ground. Make sure that the top of the deadwood is at the same height as the rootstock, or just below it. This will ensure a successful graft.
If you were grafting a thick piece of deadwood, then you’ll need to do something a little different. After spreading the incision open and keeping as much rootstock exposed, you’ll need to place it against the rootstock.
Then, you’ll need to use a wooden dowel to help secure it in place. Use the wooden dowel to push the deadwood into the incision. Keep pushing until the deadwood fits snuggly against the rootstock. After that, use tree sap to keep the deadwood in place. Coat the deadwood with as much tree sap as you can. After it’s dried, the deadwood should stay in place.
If you’re successful, then the deadwood will begin to grow. Over time, it’ll become a part of the rootstock.
If the deadwood is a succulent, like a shadetree, then it’ll start to give the plant water as well.
If you do this with enough plants, then you’ll have plenty of wood to build a shelter and keep yourself sustained in the desert!
You have gained a new skill: Botany!
You have gained a new skill: Woodworking!”
Melcar smiles and nods at your success.
“Good, good. Now that you’ve got it down, you should get to work on it.
We need all the wood we can get.”
But I haven’t even learned how to build any of the furniture yet.” You say.
“You’re joking right?
Sources & references used in this article:
A report on Leucanthemum× superbum and related daisies by RG Hawke – Plant Evaluation Notes, 2007 – chicagobotanic.org
Leucanthemum plant named’Cream Puff’ by HA Hansen – US Patent App. 15/731,780, 2019 – Google Patents
Deer in My Garden: Vol. 1: Perennials & Subshrubs by T DiSabato-Aust – 2006 – Timber Press
Annuals for every garden by C Singer – 2006 – books.google.com
The Well-tended Perennial Garden: The Essential Guide to Planting and Pruning Techniques by RR Clausen, T Christopher – 2015 – Timber Press
Waterwise Plants for Sustainable Gardens: 200 Drought-Tolerant Choices for all Climates by SD Appell – 2003 – books.google.com