Homestead 24 Plant Care: How To Grow Homestead 24 Tomato Plants
The following are some of the most common questions asked by readers about homestead tomato plants.
Q: What is the difference between Indeterminate and Determinate?
A: There is no real difference between these two types of tomatoes. They both produce fruit with a similar shape and size. However, there are differences in flavor and texture. These differences depend on how they were grown. Indeterminates are usually grown from seeds and then planted directly into the ground. They have a short growing season so they need to be watered frequently during their first year. Determinates grow slowly over time but do not require much water once established because they don’t need to be watered until after the second year when they begin producing fruit. When choosing which type of tomato plant to use, it is best to start with one that is fast-growing and will provide enough fruit for your needs. If you want a larger crop than what you can get from a small seedling, consider purchasing a large quantity of seeds and planting them all at once.
Q: Do I need soil amendments?
A: No! You don’t need any kind of soil amendment other than regular watering during the growing season. However, you should always make sure that your soil is loose and has a slightly acidic PH balance of 6.5. If you have sandy soil, it is easy to maintain a slightly acidic balance with few nutrients so you do not need any fertilizer. If you find that your plants have yellow leaves, then the soil does not contain enough nutrients and you should consider adding fertilizer during the next growth cycle.
The important thing is to make sure that your soil remains slightly damp at all times. If it is too acidic or too basic (meaning that it has too much of a pH level), the plant might not survive. While you can use soil from your garden as a growing medium, you can also use peat moss or even humus to grow them in.
Q: What are considered “diseases?”
A: You should be aware of two different diseases that can affect your tomatoes. The first of these is blossom end rot. This is a condition in which the plant develops a black area at the bottom of its fruit. While this condition can be caused by too much watering (which causes the roots to become fungal), more often this condition is caused by a lack of calcium. In sandy soil, tomato plants might not get enough calcium to support their growth. To prevent blossom end rot, make sure that your soil has enough calcium and add some extra if necessary. The next major disease is called fusarium wilt. Fusarium wilt can kill your plant within a week or two of when it first shows up. This disease is identified by yellowing between the leaf veins as well as at the base of the plant. If you find that your tomato plants are infected with this disease, you should pull them out and dispose of the infected plants immediately to prevent the spread of fungal spores to healthy plants. It is important that you always quarantine new plants to prevent the spread of this and other diseases.
Q: How do I harvest my fruits?
A: When it comes time to harvest your fruits, you need to pick them when they are ripe. The problem is, it’s hard to tell if they’re ripe until you pick them! Each fruit will change color slightly as it ripens, beginning with a green fruit and ending with shades of red or even yellow depending on the variety. It is possible to harvest your fruits when they begin to turn yellow or even orange. These fruits will ripen faster when kept at room temperature and will have a sweeter taste, but they might not have as long of a shelf life as fruits that are allowed to ripen on the vine.
Storing: If you are only going to use your tomatoes in cooking, then you can leave them out at room temperature and they should be fine for a few days. If you are planning to can them, then it’s better to harvest the fruits when they begin to turn red or even purple. These can be canned with a water bath and should last for a year or more.
Q: What are the health benefits of tomatoes?
A: Tomatoes are very nutritious, especially when eaten raw. They contain high amounts of vitamin C which is beneficial for your immune system and helps prevent infection. Tomatoes also have high quantities of vitamin A (in the form of beta carotene) which is necessary for normal vision among other things.
Q: How do I can my tomatoes?
A: There are two different ways that you can can your tomatoes. The first way involves water-bath canning and the second way involves pressure canning. Water-bath canning is easier and less time consuming, but it is not as safe as pressure canning. With water-bath canning, you can safely preserve items at their boiling point (at sea level). At higher elevations, it is necessary to do pressure canning due to the fact that the boiling point is lower than the temperatures required to kill microorganisms. In water-bath canning, you need to cook your food above the temperature of boiling water, at sea level, for a set amount of time in order to kill all the microorganisms in the food. This can be achieved by setting your canner to 240°F or higher. You also need to boil your jars for the same amount of time in order to sanitize them before you fill them with food. The boiling water method is not as effective as the pressure canner and only works at sea level (or places with similar atmospheric conditions). If you live in an area that is higher than sea level, then the boiling temperature of water decreases. Therefore, the temperature that is required to kill the microorganisms in your food also decreases. In order to safely can at higher elevations, a pressure canner must be used. The temperature achieved during pressure canning is much higher than that of water-bath canning and helps eliminate any microorganisms that may be present in the food you are canning. For proper instructions on how to can your tomatoes, follow the directions listed on this guide: Can It.
Sources & references used in this article:
A chemical method for estimating Fusarium oxysporum f. lycopersici in infected tomato plants by JP Ride, RB Drysdale – Physiological Plant Pathology, 1971 – Elsevier
Factors affecting penetrance of resistance to Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. lycopersici in tomatoes by H Alon, J Katan, N Kedar – Phytopathology, 1974 – apsnet.org
Post-infectional production of an inhibitor of Fusarium oxysporum f. lycopersici by tomato plants by P Langcake, RB Drysdale, H Smith – Physiological plant pathology, 1972 – Elsevier